Grant, the free-spirited Minnesotan, was my biologist for the night, and we set off in search of turtles. Within the hour, we got a message on the walkie-talkie from another group, who had collected eggs of an olive ridley. She had nested below the tide line, and her eggs needed relocating. Since we were on the most ideal portion of the beach for nests, we met the group, and they gave us the sack of eggs. I stumbled as I took it, not thinking it was going to be as heavy as it was. After we found a suitable location, Grant dug an arm-length hole for a nest chamber. He dubbed me, "Mama," meaning I was to place the eggs in the newly created chamber. Don, the other volunteer, counted as I carefully placed all 85 leathery eggs one-by-one into the hole. It sure took a long time!
As we continued our patrol, I could make out a cluster of people in the distance. It was a group of tourists lead by a park ranger. This could only mean one thing: a leatherback! We hustled to get to her. She already was laying her eggs, so Grant kicked into high gear. Don placed the temperature wire into the nest, while Grant and I took her measurements. She was a returning turtle, and she measured about 5 1/2 feet long.
The group of tourists stood silently in awe. Tourist access to the leatherbacks is very limited and regulated by the National Park. Only 2 groups of 20 people each are allowed on the beach at night. The park rangers patrol like we do, and when they spot a leatherback, they radio their station to bring the eager tourists onto the beach. The tourists cannot take pictures, shine lights, or touch the leatherbacks. This is all regulated to ensure the safety of the turtles (and to make sure people respect these noble creatures). Although the tourists sometimes make the biologists' work more difficult, the interest in the leatherbacks helps raise awareness of the turtles. Also, the money the tourists pay goes to the National Park to help ensure the protection of the beach.
We finished and continued our patrol. 2:45 a.m. High tide. Grant informed me that leatherbacks tend to "follow" each other; often, another comes to shore after one has already been there. We continued to walk and walk. At 4:03 a.m., we conducted our final "sweep" of the beach before our shift ended. Low and behold, we stumbled upon more SUV-like tracks in the sand. Another leatherback!
This time, no tourists hovered, and we went to work. Again, I marveled at the leatherback as she gracefully scooped the sand out of the sand to build her nest. Her controlled flippers seemed like arms. Finally, she positioned herself and began dropping eggs.
65 eggs! Right on target! Then, she methodically packed the sand to cover her clutch. Although it was already past 4:30 a.m., protocol is to stay with the turtle until she safely returns to the sea. Grant informed me that she would take at least another 30-45 minutes because she would "camouflage." Camouflaging occurs after a leatherback nests. The turtle moves to an adjacent area where she builds another body pit and violently throws around sand to make it look like a nest to predators. Remember, this animal has a very small brain. What instinct!
At 5:00 a.m., we saw the other Earthwatch groups, who had already finished their shifts, saunter out to join us. Of course, they knew via walkie-talkie that we were still out with a leatherback. The sun would soon be up, and that meant photos could be taken. I was told that a turtle on the beach at this hour does not happen very often, and these biologists did not want to miss it. These biologists, who had been up the entire night, did not just go flop into bed and "clock-out" after their shift. No, they wanted to see the leatherback in the daylight and appreciate her wonder.
We all sat mesmerized, watching her wildly fling sand. Finally, she oriented herself toward the ocean and began the long scoot toward home. The power of her flippers was evident, yet she struggled to move her one-ton body. She could only go about 100 yards before she needed to stop to rest. At 5:40 a.m. all of us silently watched this prehistoric giant return to the water and hoped she would visit again soon.
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